Grand-Lieu Lake

"When Nantes disappears, Herbauges will reappear."

South of Nantes in Loire-Atlantique, and a bit hard to get to, hidden behind the reeds, the largest natural lake in France only reveals its charms (in winter) to a privileged few.

Geology has allowed the Lake of Grande Lieu to exist for millions of years; the lake's neighbors however cling to the story of a drowned city. Under its waters, Herbauges, a rich city of the Gauls, sounds it carillon around midnight every December 24th to those who wish to hear it. "When Nantes disappears, Herbauges will reappear." In 1923, there were 120 fishermen in the little village of Passy (the only publicly accessible village on the lakeshore). There are less than ten of them today, on their flat-bottomed boats, hauling in a great quantity of eels, pike, pikeperch (more rare) and crayfish. The lake is a veritable treasure trove of nature. Its ecosystem is stable but is fragile nonetheless, and has always been the cause of conflict between farmers and fishermen, rich property owners (Guerlain) and later the State. In addition to these differing interests, are the more recent ones such as environmentalist, hunters, nature walkers, etc.

At the center of the 7500 hectares of protected waters, a 2500 hectare nature reserve is home to exceptional flora and fauna. There are few opportunities for visitors to discover this secret and natural place. At Passay, an observatory has recently been built and equipped with an observation platform that allows one to rise a bit above the clumps of reeds; on the ground floor aquariums contain animal life. Less well-known, toward the South West, the bell tower at Saint-Lumine-de-Coutais, open to the public allows a striking view over all the wetlands.

Every August fifteenth, the nice "fete du lac" becomes a special occasion for many residents of Nantes to sail in small boats, and in a festive atmosphere, over a few hundred meters of the lake. Of course the best way to see the lake is to go with a fisherman on his flatboat, or with a hunter across the complicated labyrinths of reeds; these are the best ways. Its up to you to be persuasive, the professionals there are really quite nice but a little shy (they get asked all the time); in sum, they are Bretons.

Pimil -2000-11-26