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Chott El Jerid - the lake of mirages
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On the raod between Tozeur and Douz, the desert
turns into the sky. The horizon stretches to infini. After the oasis of
Kebili, landmarks gradually get blurred. The road follows a straight platform
that separates the brackish water of a huge salty lake: the Chott el Jerid.
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In the summer, it becomes a salty stretch of dazzling whitness. Mirages
emerge from the split ground. The ongoing evaporation combined with the
sun creates deceptive images. Fictitious rocks quiver on the horizon,
imaginary oasis and caravans appear in front of you. Don't stare at the
same point for too long! You could believe in these mirages! Crouch down:
these Saharian aliens of air and light should instantaneously disappear.
And if you don't manage to get rid of those dreamt images, it means that
the magic of the desert starts!
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It's now time to stop in one of the shops made out of straw that appear
suddenly from nowhere by the roadside. Many mineral sand roses are on
display. Even the toilets are noteworthy, but only from outside!
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The Chott el Jerid is even more mysterious in winter. The road turns
into a dyke. The lake is nearly entirely covered with a thin layer of
water. An inland sea which secrets are known by local inhabitants. Not
long ago, crossing the Chott was an adventure. The building of a concrete
road made it simplier, but going off-track is still dangerous. Inexperienced
visitors could be trapped in the expands of mud. The salty layer could
break under the weight of a jeep. The "aion", 1 to 5 meter wide
and a few meters deep wells, welcome flamingos for a rest where the water
is less brackish.
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Fabio Benedetti-Valentini © Azureva.com
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