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Home > Tunisia > Tunisia, Tunis, the medina and the suuqs
Tunis, the medina et the suuqs
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At the end of the Avenue Habib Bourguiba and the
colonial quarter, enter the medina through Bab el bahr ( meaning 'Gate
to the sea' in Arabic), also called 'Porte de France'. In this labyrinth
of suuqs and mosques, leave the main streets and their traps for tourists
to discover one of the Arab world's most beautiful medina: muezzin's prayers,
mausoleums with magnificent stucco and ceramics, hot springs or hammam,
archways... The stunning architecture mixes Turkish, Andalusian, and European
influences.
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In the heart of the medina, the main mosque, the Zitouna ( olive tree
in Arabic) shelters real treasures. Its yard can be visited every morning,
except fridays.
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You may visit the terraces of most shops, overlooking the minarets and
the roofs of the medina and the lake of Tunis. Merchands will display
their carpets while you get down but it is worth a few minutes of patience!
Anyway, purchase is by no means compulsory... Have a rest in Café
M'Rabat and its twisted red and green columns. It is a cool and peaceful
place amidst the bustle of the suuq.
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There are at least 10 suuqs divided into trades and arranged around the
main mosque: the most noble such as perfumes, wools, cloth and fabrics
or jewells are located near it. Further away, dyeing, copper works and
oriental slippers can be found. What a perfectly planned chaos! In the
old days, heavy doors shut the quarters of the medina in the evening as
a safety measure for Tunis'inhabitants.
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The suuq is heaven for people who enjoy haggling. Yet be careful, stallholders
are master bargainers! If you want to know the right price for ceramics
or a jewell, visit first the shops of the colonial town, or drop in on
the antiquary's shop of Ed-Dar museum. He arranged an outstanding house
dating back to the 15th century. Magnificent pieces of earthenware are
on display and the view from the terrace is really breathtaking.
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The making of « red hats»
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The Chechias, these red hats so typical of Tunisia, come from
the West. In the 17th century, migrants from Andalucia introduced
this craft in Tunis. For centuries, the Tunisian capital has exported
these woollen hats more or less everywhere in the Muslim Mediterranean
countries : Turkey, Egypt, Balkan countries...
In the 18th century, the Tunisian chechia was a real industry
employing as many people as 15 000 workers, producing nearly half
a million hats.
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Chechias were originally used as a means to hold the turban. It wasn't
necessarily red. Each country had its own colour. Libyans for instance
liked it black. It is well known that Tunisians prefer red hats.
Nowadays, Tunisian men still wear the chechia for special events, together
with European clothes. As to civil servants, it is compulsory for them
to wear it on the 16th of March, Traditions Celebration day.
This provides good reasons for satisfaction to the producers of the
red hats, the"chaouachis"! The Chechia suuq is one of the
most genuine of Tunis. If you are lucky, you could see the "chaouachis"
at work!
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Fabio Benedetti-Valentini © Azureva.com
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