| Many travel agencies in Hanoi offer day excursions to Hoa Lu,
the former capitol of Vietnam in the year 1000, located about 60 miles
to the south of Hanoi. Hoa Lu, also called
the bay of Along on land is located on the southern end of the Red River
delta in the province of Ninh Binh. The landscapes there resemble the
bay of Along but without the ocean, and reminds one of the views of the
Vietnamese countryside in the film "Indochine" with Catherine Deneuve.
From the pier at Van Lâm, you can cast off onto the placid waters of
the Ngo Dong river which winds its way between rice patties and limestone
mountains.

A young woman will be your guide through these shallow waters, and will
help you to discover the river as it inches its way under three mountains
to the caves of Tam Coc (the three caves).
One of these underground passages with a very low vault, and many stalactites,
is 416 feet long. You may even pass some fishermen on your way through
the cave pulling in their daily catch from these very generous waters.
This very serene setting is surrounded by jagged, sugar-loaf shaped mountains.

During your tour, you will see how the men and women of the region actually
live, in their straw huts nestled up against the sides of the mountains.
You will encounter the friendly peasant people on their flat-bottomed
boats loaded with the rice they have just harvested. The peasant women
will wave to you and smile happily as they row by you using their feet
to push the oars back and forth. The men here fish with their children,
while the women accompany the tourists.
When you get back from your 2 to 3 hour ride, you can buy a few souvenirs
from the two women who will approach you as you get off the boat (linens,
embroidery, sculpted objects.)
Don't forget to bring a hat and sun screen. Be very careful of the very
hot sun, especially because it reflects off the water.
Bon voyage. |